However, if you blow the same fuse again instantly when you power the game back on then your trouble is still elsewhere probably lies within the monitor or marquee lights which are still blowing the main fuse(s) each time power goes through it. If the game comes back to life then congrats! Your whole trouble was just a simple blown fuse. Replace the bad fuse with a good fuse and stand away from the game, now plug the game back in and turn it on. If you find a blown fuse, you may have just found why no power is getting to your game.
MRS PACMAN ARCADE 1UP MANUAL
Please refer to the manual for the exact value. (Be careful not to place a fuse in another spot as each fuse might have a different amp/volt value) If you do find a bad fuse replace it and replace it with the same volt and amp rating as the original blown fuse. If all fuses test good then clean them off from the years worth of dust or lent and put them right back in the same place you pried them loose from. These will cause a “dead game” to happen as the main fuse won’t allow any power to the game. Test every fuse you find in the same manner so you can be sure, but concentrate on the 2 Amp Slow-Blow Fuse for the main AC input and the 2 Amp Slow-Blow Fuse for the monitor feed. If the fuses are bad then you won’t hear a beep sound and you’ll also possibly see burn marks inside the fuse etc…but sometimes you won’t so don’t just use your eyes, use the Ohm meter. Meaning that the electrical current is still able to flow through it. If the fuse is good the OHM meter will beep. You wont have to worry about what the readings say etc, you just need to hear the beep).
(To use an OHM meter set the reader to beep whenever the two metal rods touch each other or in other words you are reading the continuity. So the Pacman game you now own could either have the old original power supply or could have been “upgraded” to a new 15 amp switching power supply. The important thing to note here is that games made after 1985, generally had the necessary power requirements (+5 VDC, +12 VDC and –5VDC) so many operators did away or by-passed the original power supplies of pre-1985 games in favor of the cheaper and more disposable 15 amp power supplies. In addition certain games require additional voltages such as –12 VDC to power certain chips. Nearly all use +12 Volts DC to power the sound amplifier and in certain cases -5 Volts DC in the sound generation section of the board as well. Without getting too technical all arcade games use a printed circuit board (PCB) which require +5 Volts DC to power the boards. Some games required unique power requirements. Let me explain, in most games made before 1984, power supplies differed. At this point you may encounter a different setup than what was originally installed. They should be located near the power supply on the bottom floor of the game.
MRS PACMAN ARCADE 1UP MANUALS
Again If You can’t find them refer to the manuals here. If you’re still here and all of the trouble shooting in the first section didn’t fix your “dead” game, then in this step we will first test the main fuses and then go on to the power supply. So if this is the case then skip ahead to Step Four: Pacman PCB Repair.
Step Three: Pacman Fuse & Power Supply Repair:Īgain if you’re game has sights and sounds and you can see something on the monitor then your power supply and/or fuses are more than likely good and not the cause of your problems.
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